Top 5 Must Have Fox Body Mustang Modifications

Unhappy with how your Fox Body performs? Maybe you’re looking at picking up a Fox Body and what to know what you should do to it? Well, as an avid Foxbody enthusiast I knew this question needed answering. So, I have come up with a list of the top 5 mods to do to your Fox Body.

1. Intake

I can tell you from experience, a “cold air intake” isn’t going to gain you any power without modifying the rest of your 5.0’s intake system. The 302 that comes in the Fox Body is quite frankly pretty weak, especially at higher RPMs. An upper and lower intake manifold will yield very impressive gains, especially at the top end of the RPMs.

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A common intake is the Cobra intake manifold, but these are getting hard to find and don’t perform quite as well as modern designed intakes. I prefer Trick Flow, their intake manifolds seems to yield the best power overall. However, to see the greatest gains you’ll need an aftermarket camshaft and aftermarket heads.

  • Hp gain: 30+ rwhp
  • Price: $500- $1,000
  • Install: Easy

2. Heads

The key to making more power with any engine is in the heads. The stock heads on the 5.0 flow air very poorly, and are made of heavy cast-iron. Swapping your heads might seem like a daunting task, but it’s actually pretty easy and will transform your Fox Body. Much like the intake manifold the most common swap is Cobra (GT-40) heads. The GT40 heads flow better than stock, but are still made of heavy cast-iron.

RELATED: Ford Coyote vs Chevy LS: Which One is Better and Why?

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An aftermarket head is most definitely the way to go, with modern technology companies like Edelbrock are able to blow the factory Fox Body heads out of the water. Edelbrock E-Street heads are made of lightweight aluminum and flow better than stock, I love these heads because they’re pretty cheap.

  • Hp gain: 30+  rwhp
  • Price: $850+
  • Install: Advanced

3. Camshaft

The cherry on the cake is an aftermarket camshaft. The intake manifold and the heads perform best when complimented with a new camshaft. The most popular 5.0 cam is the Ford Racing E303 cam, providing excellent low-end torque, decent top end power, and an incredible sound at idle.

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The E303 is a street cam and won’t provide maximum power at the track. Other popular cams include Ford Racing B303, F303, and Anderson N41. I should mention that if you are really serious about your Fox Body, then stay away from the 303 camshafts. Ford designed the 303 cams 20+ years ago and they don’t have the best quality control. The 303 cams also won’t make as much power as a modern design camshaft. You can read more about this in our 303 Cams article.

  • HP gain: 25+ rwhp
  • Price: $200
  • Install: Advanced

I should mention that the first three modifications should be done at the same time since all three of them heavily compliment each other. Seriously, just save up and do all three mods at the same time.

4. Suspension

Unfortunately, the Fox Body chassis doesn’t handle very well in stock form. Plus stock Fox Body suspension sits WAY to high. Most Fox Body owners swap the front suspension to coil-over and put lowering springs in the rear. This generally makes the fox chassis much more balanced, helping eliminate most of the understeer and the tail happy rear end.

RELATED: 7 Reasons why the Fox Body is the Ultimate Muscle Car

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Raceland makes a nice set of coil overs that are very budget friendly, and really help your Fox Body handle less like a boat. An aftermarket K-member is also an excellent modification. It essentially changed your suspension geometry to a much more desirable setup.

RELATED: How to Choose the Right Fox Body K-Member

If you plan on going to a coil-over setup I would strongly recommend also getting a tubular k-member. Not only will it improve your suspension geometry, it will also save you a ton of weight, and improve chassis rigidity a ton.

  • Price: $500 – $2000
  • Install: Easy

5. 5-Lug Swap

This last modification is something I wouldn’t consider necessary, but if you have the time and the budget then do it. Going 5-lug makes your rear axle MUCH stronger, and gives you a larger selection of wheels to choose from.

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The most common swap is a rear axle from the newer SN95 Mustang, which has rear disc brakes which are a massive upgrade over the Fox Body rear drum brakes. Going 5-lug also makes your choice of wheels larger, which is always a plus.

  • Price: $400+
  • Install: Advanced

Bonus Mod – Chassis:

Of course, there are a few modifications I really wanted to mention but didn’t fit into the list of five modifications. If you really want to get serious about your Fox Body, you need to stiffen the chassis. The weak Fox Body chassis can make proper suspension setups very hard to obtain.

RELATED: The Story of my 1991 Fox Body Mustang

Subframe connectors are a popular modification that really helps the chassis, as well as the ever popular strut tower brace. Do not cheap out of these parts. Cheap chassis parts will not help your chassis whatsoever and will be a waste of time/money.

A roll cage is also a good idea. Let’s be honest, you’re reading this article because you want your Fox Body to go faster. Nobody is a perfect driver, even professionals crash. If you crash whilst racing without a roll cage you may be rolling the dice on your life. Even a simple bolt in half cage may save you and your occupants lives, plus it’s great for chassis stiffness.

Conclusion

Whether you own a Fox Body, or you are looking to buy one, we would definitely recommend doing these modifications. The head/cam/intake can gain you 100+ hp. The suspension and chassis modifications will add to the handling performance while giving it a mean, aggressive stance.

Author: Bryce Cleveland

Bryce is a die hard car fanatic. When he's not working on his Jeep Cherokee, he's beating it up in the desert. He started Dust Runners Automotive Journal in 2014 and continues to write content for it as much as possible.

9 thoughts on “Top 5 Must Have Fox Body Mustang Modifications”

  1. I own a 92 foxbody and love it. I’ve had others and now also own a new 2015 mustang Gt. While I love the modern ride and amazing smooth power of my new one, I still get excited to drive my fox. I really enjoy the raw feeling of it.

  2. You missed the absolute must do’s, subframe connectors and a strut tower brace before any engine mods. Also, the stock brakes are poor. The best thing that I ever did on my old Fox that was featured in Modified Mustangs Magazine was putting on a long gone Ford Racing M2300K brake/five lug conversion kit that has 13″/11.65″ rotors F/R.

    There is no reason to have a fast car if it cannot stop and the chassis flexes…

  3. I have owned my fox for over 20 years. Wanna nice and cheap fox that goes good? Get a LX notch 5 spd w/no power. Buy sub’s, gears, K&N and remove silencer, shifter, tires, bump timing, off road h pipe and mufflers. I also recommend rear disc brakes, strut tower brace, lowering springs, and throttle body. Easy and cheap mods that will give you a fun 5.0 to drive. Thinking about buying one? Check the strut towers and the frame rails. Especially drivers side. They rust and rot out. Not a easy fix.

  4. I miss my 92 everyday. Ran the Vin and it was a true cobra. Vortex v-1. Aggressive street cam. Equal length shorty headers to x pipes to Flowmaster 40 series to dumps right under your ass. Hung a little ricer muffler (not a fart can!) On the ass to confuse the losers eating my dust. Air shocks in front, quad shocks in back, mini tub, MEAT micky Thompson e/t street radials, plans for rear and axles and 5 lug, back to “done colum”…strut tower brace sub frame connectors, tremec tko that never got installed because the little rascal t5 that required double clutching to and from 3rd and 4th just wouldn’t grenade… that held up a time slip, and sadly even a dyno pull…. truly sad. Cervinis 4” cowl hood, smoked stock tailights, cobra-r chrome wheels with their 5 lug brethren hanging on my bedroom wall waiting for their time to shine…. pearl white house of Kolor (?) Finish. Short throw shifter , under drive pulleys, ac delete, emission bullshit delete, egr delete, heater core delete (never felt like fixing it) perelli rubber , big cross drilled and slotted rotors up front to make up for adjusted very loosley for that low resistance brake stand that would make anyone proud. 5his car was a monster. Shat on cars like 1000% the price tag, shat on then 4cyl jap bikes that were no slouch… this thing was a monster and I miss it every day…. a friend of mine did the head work on what I believe was an aluminum copy of the gt-40s…. we’re there when I bought it from the nephew of a mechanic co-wo4ker. Interior gut. Cage that I “learned” to weld making. I wouldn’t embarrass myself nhra inspecting it but it did suprise everyone at SCCA auto cross events. Msd ignition kept in the glovebox, k and n filter for that guaranteed 10% lol. Gutted upper and lower cobra intake manifold. Everything ported and polished like a burr or the weight of a grain of sand would crash the project. Plumbed for nitrous but I would never hurt my baby. Brown top injectors (I do believe I recall) controlled by a top secret EMS , conducted by a top secret cam grind. Oil pan that was couple hundred dollars overpriced. Windage eliminating doohickeys with automatic headlight fluid heater. Air to air intercooler. Trans cooler, oil cooler, all crammed in there looking like a 7.3L. Basically gave the car away for a steal cuz sometimes life puts it’s boot on the back of your hear. If your reading this and you got my car at deal of a lifetime luck. Bring her on by I’d like to see how you could imagine improving it or doing another infinity-foot burnout or a bakers dozen of doughnuts. I’ve ow3d every year car from 79 to 96. And this was the only one I really loved. Never defeated on the street, with shot sincros and a driver who could smoke Willie Nelson out of house and home.

    1. What a novel…. that’s how truly loved and pushed to the limits of a shock block with a girdle you can go. Pushed over half an atmosphere with 130+ thousand

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